Ola!
So, you rightly presume, we made it to Portugal! To Vila Nova de Foz Coa, to be precise. [Foz Coa means “mouth of the Coa”, where the River Coa joins the Douro.] We were here in 2019 and did three separate hikes to view petroglyphs, but we never made it through their museum which is supposed to be really good. So, we’re here, unfortunately not to hike, but to view the exhibits and have lunch in what we both remember as their wonderful restaurant. However, this day hasn’t been without it’s … perils? … issues? Hmmm…
Up about 7 this morning, and then the big packing began. We had purchased so many groceries at the Carrefour, that I for one wasn’t prepared to leave behind us! So, not only did we end up with our two suitcases, our two backpacks, my purse, R’s camera bag, but not one but TWO shopping bags full of “stuff” – food, of course, but also paper towels, Kleenex, shampoo, etc. We had quite a load to schlep over to the parking garage. There was definitely something up as we walked through town – police and police cars everywhere, and lots of caution tape … R stayed with the luggage at the entrance to town, and I went down into the parking garage to fetch the car. Fortunately, today we did not have any problems getting out of the garage, and I was back up with R in a very few minutes. (Note: Thinking out loud last night, we asked ourselves if we had forgotten the road atlas in the car … and R hoped we hadn’t left it on the roof of the vehicle. So, this morning, as soon as I got to the car, I started looking for the map – nothing! However, not being the most visual person on the planet, some nice citizen had found it and placed it on the outside of the vehicle, wedged between the windshield and the hood. Thank you, nameless person, for being so honest! Quite literally, we’d be “lost” without it! (Especially as R marks all our routes on it!)
Started down the hill a new way, but I just wanted to get down off that hill … well, seems we couldn’t! There was the Avila Marathon going on, and all – and I really mean ALL streets were blocked; there was literally no way out. The young man I communicated with thought it would be something like 40 minutes to clear … so, backed up the car into a parking space and spent the next 30-40 minutes watching people of all ages run past us. Hmmm…when we saw the ambulance come through, we figured we were at the Lantern Rouge, which in the Tour de France is the very last thing that passes by, sweeping up riders who had no chance of making it in the time allotment. Well, while there were still a few runners going by, the police at least allowed traffic to move – FINALLY! Whew! All’s fair in love and marathons, obviously!
Our first stop was Villaneuva de Camposillo to see the largest verraco on record. Took us a while to get there, but when we finally did, there were actually TWO verracos there! What a great idea! From Villaneuva, Emmy, our GPS took us quite literally across country – for a while, she had us on roads that were NOT on our Portugal/Spain atlas! Truly beautiful countryside, with lots of yellow gorse (or whatever!) everywhere, and the rare cow or horse munching along the way. It was quite frankly one of the most beautiful car-rides we’ve ever made! Just wonderful – and two verracos as well! Oh! And I also spotted a Hoopoe! Very distinctive bird, that’s for sure! I took several photos, but they were pretty far away, so R found a photo of one for me to show you!

Biggest verraco, in town center
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| Villanueva from a distance |
At this point, we were able to rejoin the main road, and found our way into Portugal. So nice to be back! We left the main highway (the route selected by the GPS) and took the local, back roads to Vila Nova de Foz Coa; they were also lovely and very uncrowded, and scenery was terrific. We arrived at our apartment at about 3:30 pm (although with the hour time change, it was actually about 2:30 pm.).
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| Not hard to recognize, that's for sure! |
We pulled up in front of our Airbnb to find the landlord and his wife inside – and, of course, a small problem! Define small?? No water from the taps! Apparently, it covers a large part of town, including the area we’re in, and there is absolutely NO indication if and/or when it will come back on. So … moved all our “stuff” inside – the place is really lovely, and definitely has the very best TV we’ve had since we landed! We got to watch the end of the Giro d’Italia 2022 stage race (cycling) today. Tomorrow, unfortunately, is a rest day, but I suppose the guys do need some time off for good behavior now and then!
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| Amazing terracing for grapes |
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| The Coa |
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| with boat! |
R has been feeling the need to cook something, especially since last night’s mega-dinner. So, off to the local Intermarche in town to buy some pasta and sauce and put a meal together! This was also the place where, three years ago, we found the outdoor laundromat right in front of the store – and now, unfortunately, sob, it’s GONE! I never really thought it was a great idea anyway, but still, it’s sad…
Tomorrow is still rather up in the air. We know we can get to the museum in the morning, and then our plan is to have lunch in their wonderful restaurant – always assuming that they do have water. If not, and none looking like coming anytime soon, I think we will forsake our lovely flat and head out toward Porto. Or maybe towards Coimbra … or … We’ll definitely be making it up as we go, but that’s fine too – always the fun challenges of traveling!
So, to close for now, sending all love and good wishes!
m
xxx
















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